Aeolian Islands
Italy · a week from Marina di Portorosa · about 91 nautical miles
Transcript
Aeolian Islands, Italy. Volcanic islands off the north coast of Sicily, with black beaches, hot springs and a volcano that erupts at dusk.
Most charter companies for the Aeolian Islands are based at Marina di Portorosa, on the north coast of Sicily, about two hours by road from Catania airport. It is a large, sheltered marina, and Vulcano is only about fifteen miles away. Some smaller fleets sail from Capo d'Orlando and Milazzo, along the same coast.
The season runs from April to October. May, June and September are the best months: warm water, steady breezes and room in the harbours. July and August are hot and very busy, especially around the middle of August, so book marina berths ahead and arrive at anchorages early. April and October are quieter, but the weather is less settled and some ferries, bars and restaurants keep shorter hours.
Summer is hot and mostly settled, with a north-westerly breeze most afternoons. The maestrale can blow hard for a day or two, and the scirocco brings heat, haze and swell. The Maestrale blows from the north-west. The usual summer wind, often force 3 to 5 in the afternoon. It can reach force 6 or more and sends a swell into north-facing bays. The Scirocco blows from the south-east. Hot, humid and hazy, sometimes carrying Saharan dust. It sends a swell into Lipari, Panarea and other harbours open to the east. The Libeccio blows from the south-west. Less common in summer, but it can blow hard with a heavy swell. Shelter on the north-east side of the islands.
Four ways to spend the night. Marinas: Stern-to on lazy lines in Portorosa, Lipari and Santa Marina, with water and power on the pontoon. Book ahead in July and August. Town quays: Most harbour walls are kept for ferries and hydrofoils. Seasonal floating pontoons take yachts in several harbours. Expect wash from passing ferries. Buoys: Paid mooring buoys in many bays, including Panarea and Stromboli. Someone comes by in a boat to collect the fee. At anchor: The water gets deep quickly off these volcanic shores, so carry plenty of chain and anchor in sand. Keep clear of seagrass and ferry approaches.
Filling up. Water and shore power are available in the marinas and on most town quays, but not on buoys or at anchor. Fuel is available in Portorosa, Santa Marina and Lipari. Keep the tanks topped up whenever you pass a fuel station.
Now a sample week. It starts and ends in Marina di Portorosa: six short sailing days and about 91 nautical miles, taking in Vulcano, Santa Marina, Panarea, Stromboli and Lipari.
Saturday. Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from late afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. There are bars and restaurants around the marina for the first evening.
Sunday. Portorosa to Vulcano, about 17 miles. An easy first crossing north from Sicily to Vulcano, the nearest island. You will smell the sulphur before you arrive. Lunch at anchor off the black beach at Gelso, on the south coast of Vulcano, if the wind allows. While you're there: wallow in the warm mud pool if it is open, swim where hot springs bubble up off the beach and climb the Gran Cratere when the path is open. A buoy or a seasonal pontoon in Porto di Levante, or anchor in Porto di Ponente on the other side of the island if the wind is easterly.
Monday. Vulcano to Santa Marina, Salina, about 12 miles. North up the east coast of Lipari, past the old white pumice quarries, then across to Salina, the greenest of the islands. Swim stop below the pumice cliffs on the north-east coast of Lipari, where the water is a bright turquoise. While you're there: taste the sweet local Malvasia wine, try a granita and pane cunzato in the village of Lingua and take a taxi to Pollara, the cliff bay from the film Il Postino. Marina berth in Santa Marina Salina, or a buoy off Rinella on the south coast in settled weather.
Tuesday. Santa Marina to Panarea, about 10 miles. A short hop east to Panarea, the smallest and most stylish of the islands, with white houses, bougainvillea and a ring of rocky islets. Swim among the islets east of Panarea, where volcanic gas bubbles up from the seabed. While you're there: snorkel in the clear water of Cala Junco, walk up to the Bronze Age village on Capo Milazzese and have a sundowner in the waterfront bars of San Pietro. A mooring buoy or anchor off San Pietro, the main village. It is open to the east, so check the forecast.
Wednesday. Panarea to Stromboli, about 12 miles. North-east to Stromboli, the lighthouse of the Mediterranean, which has been erupting almost without a break for thousands of years. After dark, motor round to the Sciara del Fuoco and watch the eruptions from the sea, keeping outside the exclusion zone. While you're there: watch the glowing eruptions from the sea after dark, walk the black sand beach at Ficogrande and ask the local guides which volcano walks are open. A mooring buoy or anchor off Ficogrande, below the village. It is an open roadstead, so stay only in settled weather.
Thursday. Stromboli to Lipari, about 22 miles. The longest day of the week, back south-west past Panarea to Lipari, the main island. In the usual north-westerly breeze it is often a fast reach. While you're there: climb up to the castle and the archaeological museum, stroll along the lively Corso Vittorio Emanuele and have a last big dinner ashore with local swordfish. Marina berth at Pignataro or on the pontoons of Marina Lunga, a short walk from the old town.
Friday. Lipari to Portorosa, about 18 miles. Refuel in Lipari if you need to, then south past Vulcano and back across to Sicily, with a last swim on the way. While you're there: take a morning swim off the east coast of Vulcano, refuel at the marina entrance before the Friday queue and have a final dinner ashore in Portorosa. Back in Marina di Portorosa by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Be back in Portorosa by Friday evening, refuelled at the marina's fuel station, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine. No sailing licence? Add a skipper and simply enjoy the week.
The Aeolian Islands lie a short sail off Sicily's north coast: seven volcanic islands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with Stromboli still erupting every few minutes. Distances are short and every island is different, from the sulphur and mud of Vulcano to the vineyards of Salina and the white village of Panarea. This loop from Portorosa takes in the five central islands, with the eruptions of Stromboli seen from the sea at dusk as the highlight.
Where the charter boats are
Most charter companies for the Aeolian Islands are based at Marina di Portorosa, on the north coast of Sicily, about two hours by road from Catania airport. It is a large, sheltered marina, and Vulcano is only about fifteen miles away. Some smaller fleets sail from Capo d'Orlando and Milazzo, along the same coast.
Main bases: Marina di Portorosa. Marinas: Marina di Capo d'Orlando · Milazzo
When to go
- The season runs from April to October.
- May, June and September are the best months: warm water, steady breezes and room in the harbours.
- July and August are hot and very busy, especially around the middle of August, so book marina berths ahead and arrive at anchorages early.
- April and October are quieter, but the weather is less settled and some ferries, bars and restaurants keep shorter hours.
Weather
Summer is hot and mostly settled, with a north-westerly breeze most afternoons. The maestrale can blow hard for a day or two, and the scirocco brings heat, haze and swell.
Maestrale
from the north-west
The usual summer wind, often force 3 to 5 in the afternoon. It can reach force 6 or more and sends a swell into north-facing bays.
Scirocco
from the south-east
Hot, humid and hazy, sometimes carrying Saharan dust. It sends a swell into Lipari, Panarea and other harbours open to the east.
Libeccio
from the south-west
Less common in summer, but it can blow hard with a heavy swell. Shelter on the north-east side of the islands.
Forecasts
- Italian Air Force Meteorological Service marine bulletins at meteoam.it.
- Continuous VHF marine weather bulletins in Italian and English from the Italian coastguard.
- Your charter company's check-in briefing for the week ahead.
Sea temperature: Around 19 to 20 °C in May, 25 to 27 °C in July and August, about 24 °C in late September.
Where you moor
marina
Stern-to on lazy lines in Portorosa, Lipari and Santa Marina, with water and power on the pontoon. Book ahead in July and August.
town quay
Most harbour walls are kept for ferries and hydrofoils. Seasonal floating pontoons take yachts in several harbours. Expect wash from passing ferries.
buoy
Paid mooring buoys in many bays, including Panarea and Stromboli. Someone comes by in a boat to collect the fee.
anchor
The water gets deep quickly off these volcanic shores, so carry plenty of chain and anchor in sand. Keep clear of seagrass and ferry approaches.
Filling up: water, power and fuel
| Port | Type | Water | Power | Fuel | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Portorosa | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Charter base: start and finish. Fuel station at the harbour entrance. |
| Vulcano | Buoys | – | – | – | Buoys and seasonal pontoons in Porto di Levante; ask the pontoon staff about water and power. Refuel in Lipari or Santa Marina. |
| Santa Marina | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Marina next to the ferry port, with a fuel dock. Rinella, on the south coast, has buoys. |
| Panarea | Buoys | – | – | – | Buoys and anchoring off San Pietro. Very busy in August and open to the east. No fuel: refuel in Lipari or Santa Marina. |
| Stromboli | Buoys | – | – | – | Buoys or anchor off Ficogrande in settled weather only; deep water close in. No fuel. |
| Lipari | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Pignataro and Marina Lunga. The main town of the islands, with fuel, shops and repairs. |
A sample week
Saturday: Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from late afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. There are bars and restaurants around the marina for the first evening.
Sunday · about 17 nm
Portorosa → Vulcano
An easy first crossing north from Sicily to Vulcano, the nearest island. You will smell the sulphur before you arrive.
On the way: Lunch at anchor off the black beach at Gelso, on the south coast of Vulcano, if the wind allows.
- Wallow in the warm mud pool if it is open
- Swim where hot springs bubble up off the beach
- Climb the Gran Cratere when the path is open
Overnight: A buoy or a seasonal pontoon in Porto di Levante, or anchor in Porto di Ponente on the other side of the island if the wind is easterly.
Monday · about 12 nm
Vulcano → Santa Marina, Salina
North up the east coast of Lipari, past the old white pumice quarries, then across to Salina, the greenest of the islands.
On the way: Swim stop below the pumice cliffs on the north-east coast of Lipari, where the water is a bright turquoise.
- Taste the sweet local Malvasia wine
- Try a granita and pane cunzato in the village of Lingua
- Take a taxi to Pollara, the cliff bay from the film Il Postino
Overnight: Marina berth in Santa Marina Salina, or a buoy off Rinella on the south coast in settled weather.
Tuesday · about 10 nm
Santa Marina → Panarea
A short hop east to Panarea, the smallest and most stylish of the islands, with white houses, bougainvillea and a ring of rocky islets.
On the way: Swim among the islets east of Panarea, where volcanic gas bubbles up from the seabed.
- Snorkel in the clear water of Cala Junco
- Walk up to the Bronze Age village on Capo Milazzese
- Have a sundowner in the waterfront bars of San Pietro
Overnight: A mooring buoy or anchor off San Pietro, the main village. It is open to the east, so check the forecast.
Wednesday · about 12 nm
Panarea → Stromboli
North-east to Stromboli, the lighthouse of the Mediterranean, which has been erupting almost without a break for thousands of years.
On the way: After dark, motor round to the Sciara del Fuoco and watch the eruptions from the sea, keeping outside the exclusion zone.
- Watch the glowing eruptions from the sea after dark
- Walk the black sand beach at Ficogrande
- Ask the local guides which volcano walks are open
Overnight: A mooring buoy or anchor off Ficogrande, below the village. It is an open roadstead, so stay only in settled weather.
Thursday · about 22 nm
Stromboli → Lipari
The longest day of the week, back south-west past Panarea to Lipari, the main island. In the usual north-westerly breeze it is often a fast reach.
- Climb up to the castle and the archaeological museum
- Stroll along the lively Corso Vittorio Emanuele
- Have a last big dinner ashore with local swordfish
Overnight: Marina berth at Pignataro or on the pontoons of Marina Lunga, a short walk from the old town.
Friday · about 18 nm
Lipari → Portorosa
Refuel in Lipari if you need to, then south past Vulcano and back across to Sicily, with a last swim on the way.
- Take a morning swim off the east coast of Vulcano
- Refuel at the marina entrance before the Friday queue
- Have a final dinner ashore in Portorosa
Overnight: Back in Marina di Portorosa by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Friday evening and Saturday: Be back in Portorosa by Friday evening, refuelled at the marina's fuel station, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine.
Navigation and mooring
- Ferries and fast hydrofoils run all day between the islands and to Milazzo. Keep clear of harbour entrances and expect wash at every quay.
- The islands rise steeply from deep water, so anchorages are often deep close to the shore. Carry plenty of chain and check the holding before you leave the boat.
- Stromboli: keep outside the exclusion zone off the Sciara del Fuoco, the lava slope on the north-west side. In December 2022 the coastguard extended it to two miles; check the current ordinance with the harbour office in Lipari before you go.
- Most anchorages are open on one side. Choose the side of the island sheltered from the forecast wind, and leave Panarea or Stromboli early if a swell builds.
- Stromboli and Vulcano are active volcanoes. Check the current alert level with the Italian Civil Protection before the week; landings, walks and swimming areas can close at short notice.
Provisioning
- Stock up on the Sicilian side before you leave: Milazzo has large supermarkets, and many charter companies can arrange delivery to the boat.
- Lipari has the best shops, bakeries and fishmongers in the islands; Salina and Vulcano have good small grocers.
- Fresh water is precious on the islands, much of it shipped in. Fill the tanks in Portorosa, Lipari or Santa Marina whenever you can.
Rules and fees
- The charter company provides the boat's papers. Skippers need a recognised licence and a VHF radio certificate. Add a skipper if nobody aboard has them.
- The authorities can close the sea off the Sciara del Fuoco, landings and volcano walks at short notice. Follow the coastguard ordinances and check the current alert level.
- Anchoring on seagrass meadows and inside swimming areas is increasingly restricted in Italian waters. Follow local signs and check the current rules and harbour fees with the harbour office in Lipari.
A planning guide, not a navigational publication. Maps are simplified and distances approximate. Always use official charts, the current pilot book, local notices and the latest forecast, and follow your charter company's briefing.