La Maddalena and the Costa Smeralda
Italy · a week from Marina di Portisco · about 84 nautical miles
Transcript
La Maddalena and the Costa Smeralda, Italy. Granite islands, turquoise bays and a hop across the strait to Corsica.
Most charter companies in north-east Sardinia are in two places, both an easy drive from Olbia airport: Marina di Portisco on the Costa Smeralda, and Cannigione a little further north. This week starts in Portisco. From Cannigione the loop is the same, simply joined on a different day.
The season runs from late April to October. May, June and September are the best months: warm water, fewer boats and easier berths. July and August are hot and very busy, and Porto Cervo and the archipelago fill up, so book marina berths well ahead. April and October are quieter, but there are more days of strong maestrale, and some restaurants and park services close.
Summers are dry and sunny, with a sea breeze most afternoons. The wind to watch is the maestrale, which funnels through the Strait of Bonifacio and can blow hard for several days. The Maestrale blows from the north-west. The local name for the mistral and the main summer wind. In the strait it is often a force or two stronger than out at sea. Shelter on the south-east side of the islands, or stay in harbour. The Levante blows from the east. An easterly that also speeds up through the strait. It makes east-facing bays uncomfortable, so move to the west side of the islands. The Scirocco blows from the south-east. Hot, humid and hazy, sometimes carrying Saharan dust. It sends swell into bays open to the south-east.
Four ways to spend the night. Marinas: Stern-to on lazy lines, with a marinero to help you in. Porto Cervo is among the most expensive marinas in the Mediterranean in high season, so book ahead. Town quays: La Maddalena and Bonifacio have harbours right in town, run by the council or the port office. Book ahead in summer and arrive early. Buoys: Some bays in the national park have buoy fields. Check the rules for each one with the park or your charter company. At anchor: Anchor on sand only, never on seagrass. Some bays in the park are closed to anchoring, and the rules have changed from one season to the next.
Filling up. Water and shore power are available in the marinas and on most town quays, but not on buoys or at anchor. Fuel is available in Portisco, Porto Cervo, Bonifacio and Cannigione. Keep the tanks topped up whenever you pass a fuel station.
Now a sample week. It starts and ends in Marina di Portisco: six short sailing days and about 84 nautical miles, taking in Porto Cervo, Caprera, La Maddalena, Bonifacio and Cannigione.
Saturday. Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from late afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. Ask the charter company whether the national park permit is included before you set off.
Sunday. Portisco to Porto Cervo, about 12 miles. A gentle first sail north along the Costa Smeralda, past white beaches and granite headlands, while everyone finds their feet. Lunch and a swim in Cala di Volpe, below the famous hotel. While you're there: swim in the turquoise water of Cala di Volpe, wander round the little piazza and the superyachts in Porto Cervo and watch the sunset from the Stella Maris church above the harbour. Marina berth in Porto Cervo, the glamorous heart of the coast. Book well ahead in July and August.
Monday. Porto Cervo to Caprera, about 10 miles. North round Capo Ferro and into the La Maddalena national park, to the quiet pine-backed bays of Caprera, the island where Garibaldi spent his last years. While you're there: walk to Garibaldi's house and museum, follow the trails through the pines to a viewpoint and swim from the boat in clear, shallow water. At anchor or on a buoy in Porto Palma, a sheltered bay on the south-west side of Caprera.
Tuesday. Caprera to La Maddalena, about 12 miles. A day among the islands: west to Spargi for a swim off its sandy coves, then north to look at Budelli from the water before a short hop to La Maddalena town. The famous Pink Beach on Budelli is a closed zone, so admire the island from outside the marked area. While you're there: swim and snorkel off the beaches of Spargi, wander the old town and the waterfront in La Maddalena and have dinner in one of the small squares above the harbour. Berth in Cala Gavetta, the town harbour in the centre of La Maddalena.
Wednesday. La Maddalena to Bonifacio, about 13 miles. Across the Strait of Bonifacio to France, leaving early before the afternoon wind builds. The arrival is unforgettable: white cliffs, an old town on top, and a harbour hidden in a narrow inlet. While you're there: climb up to the old town on the clifftop, walk down the King of Aragon's Staircase in the cliff face and follow the cliff path towards the Pertusato lighthouse. Marina berth in Bonifacio, below the old town. Book ahead in July and August.
Thursday. Bonifacio to Cannigione, about 22 miles. Out past the cliffs to the Lavezzi islands for a swim among granite boulders, then back across the strait and through the archipelago to the long, sheltered gulf of Cannigione. Lunch at anchor in Cala Lazarina on Lavezzi, in the marked anchoring areas only. While you're there: snorkel among the boulders at Lavezzi, visit the memorial to a French frigate wrecked on the islands in 1855 and take an evening stroll along the Cannigione waterfront. Marina berth in Cannigione, a relaxed little town with good shops.
Friday. Cannigione to Portisco, about 15 miles. Out of the gulf and back south along the Costa Smeralda, with time for a last swim before refuelling and returning to base. A final swim stop in one of the bays south of Porto Cervo. While you're there: take a morning swim before the last sail, refuel in Portisco before the Friday queue builds and have a farewell dinner ashore in Porto Rotondo or Portisco. Back in Marina di Portisco by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Be back in Portisco by Friday evening, refuelled, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine. No sailing licence? Add a skipper and simply enjoy the week.
North-east Sardinia packs a lot into a week. The coves of the Costa Smeralda sit next to the La Maddalena archipelago, a national park of granite islands and shallow turquoise water, and Bonifacio in Corsica is a short hop across the strait. This loop takes in all three without long passages, but the strait is windy: plan the crossing days around the forecast.
Where the charter boats are
Most charter companies in north-east Sardinia are in two places, both an easy drive from Olbia airport: Marina di Portisco on the Costa Smeralda, and Cannigione a little further north. This week starts in Portisco. From Cannigione the loop is the same, simply joined on a different day.
Main bases: Marina di Portisco and Cannigione. Marinas: Marina di Olbia · Palau
When to go
- The season runs from late April to October.
- May, June and September are the best months: warm water, fewer boats and easier berths.
- July and August are hot and very busy, and Porto Cervo and the archipelago fill up, so book marina berths well ahead.
- April and October are quieter, but there are more days of strong maestrale, and some restaurants and park services close.
Weather
Summers are dry and sunny, with a sea breeze most afternoons. The wind to watch is the maestrale, which funnels through the Strait of Bonifacio and can blow hard for several days.
Maestrale
from the north-west
The local name for the mistral and the main summer wind. In the strait it is often a force or two stronger than out at sea. Shelter on the south-east side of the islands, or stay in harbour.
Levante
from the east
An easterly that also speeds up through the strait. It makes east-facing bays uncomfortable, so move to the west side of the islands.
Scirocco
from the south-east
Hot, humid and hazy, sometimes carrying Saharan dust. It sends swell into bays open to the south-east.
Forecasts
- Italian coastguard weather broadcasts on VHF, and the Meteomar marine forecasts from the Italian weather service online.
- Météo-France marine forecasts for Corsica and the strait. The Pertusato semaphore at the southern tip of Corsica can give local conditions on VHF.
- Your charter company's check-in briefing, and the forecast posted in marina offices.
Sea temperature: Around 18 to 19 °C in May, 24 to 26 °C in July and August, 23 °C in late September.
Where you moor
marina
Stern-to on lazy lines, with a marinero to help you in. Porto Cervo is among the most expensive marinas in the Mediterranean in high season, so book ahead.
town quay
La Maddalena and Bonifacio have harbours right in town, run by the council or the port office. Book ahead in summer and arrive early.
buoy
Some bays in the national park have buoy fields. Check the rules for each one with the park or your charter company.
anchor
Anchor on sand only, never on seagrass. Some bays in the park are closed to anchoring, and the rules have changed from one season to the next.
Filling up: water, power and fuel
| Port | Type | Water | Power | Fuel | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Portisco | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Charter base: start and finish. Fuel dock in the marina; expect a queue on Friday afternoon. |
| Porto Cervo | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Large, well-sheltered and expensive. Fuel station in the harbour. Book ahead in summer. |
| Caprera | Anchorage | – | – | – | Porto Palma bay, inside the national park: park permit needed. Anchor on sand or use a buoy where available. No fuel or water. |
| La Maddalena | Town quay | ✓ | ✓ | – | Cala Gavetta, the council-run harbour in the town centre. Fuel is reported in the harbour area but check before relying on it; Cannigione and Porto Cervo have fuel stations. |
| Bonifacio | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Deep, very sheltered inlet below the old town. Fuel station on the quay. Busy in summer: call ahead. |
| Cannigione | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Sheltered marina in the gulf, with a fuel station on the quay. Shallow close inshore: follow the marinero's directions. |
A sample week
Saturday: Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from late afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. Ask the charter company whether the national park permit is included before you set off.
Sunday · about 12 nm
Portisco → Porto Cervo
A gentle first sail north along the Costa Smeralda, past white beaches and granite headlands, while everyone finds their feet.
On the way: Lunch and a swim in Cala di Volpe, below the famous hotel.
- Swim in the turquoise water of Cala di Volpe
- Wander round the little piazza and the superyachts in Porto Cervo
- Watch the sunset from the Stella Maris church above the harbour
Overnight: Marina berth in Porto Cervo, the glamorous heart of the coast. Book well ahead in July and August.
Monday · about 10 nm
Porto Cervo → Caprera
North round Capo Ferro and into the La Maddalena national park, to the quiet pine-backed bays of Caprera, the island where Garibaldi spent his last years.
- Walk to Garibaldi's house and museum
- Follow the trails through the pines to a viewpoint
- Swim from the boat in clear, shallow water
Overnight: At anchor or on a buoy in Porto Palma, a sheltered bay on the south-west side of Caprera.
Tuesday · about 12 nm
Caprera → La Maddalena
A day among the islands: west to Spargi for a swim off its sandy coves, then north to look at Budelli from the water before a short hop to La Maddalena town.
On the way: The famous Pink Beach on Budelli is a closed zone, so admire the island from outside the marked area.
- Swim and snorkel off the beaches of Spargi
- Wander the old town and the waterfront in La Maddalena
- Have dinner in one of the small squares above the harbour
Overnight: Berth in Cala Gavetta, the town harbour in the centre of La Maddalena.
Wednesday · about 13 nm
La Maddalena → Bonifacio
Across the Strait of Bonifacio to France, leaving early before the afternoon wind builds. The arrival is unforgettable: white cliffs, an old town on top, and a harbour hidden in a narrow inlet.
- Climb up to the old town on the clifftop
- Walk down the King of Aragon's Staircase in the cliff face
- Follow the cliff path towards the Pertusato lighthouse
Overnight: Marina berth in Bonifacio, below the old town. Book ahead in July and August.
Thursday · about 22 nm
Bonifacio → Cannigione
Out past the cliffs to the Lavezzi islands for a swim among granite boulders, then back across the strait and through the archipelago to the long, sheltered gulf of Cannigione.
On the way: Lunch at anchor in Cala Lazarina on Lavezzi, in the marked anchoring areas only.
- Snorkel among the boulders at Lavezzi
- Visit the memorial to a French frigate wrecked on the islands in 1855
- Take an evening stroll along the Cannigione waterfront
Overnight: Marina berth in Cannigione, a relaxed little town with good shops.
Friday · about 15 nm
Cannigione → Portisco
Out of the gulf and back south along the Costa Smeralda, with time for a last swim before refuelling and returning to base.
On the way: A final swim stop in one of the bays south of Porto Cervo.
- Take a morning swim before the last sail
- Refuel in Portisco before the Friday queue builds
- Have a farewell dinner ashore in Porto Rotondo or Portisco
Overnight: Back in Marina di Portisco by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Friday evening and Saturday: Be back in Portisco by Friday evening, refuelled, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine.
Navigation and mooring
- The Strait of Bonifacio is a wind funnel. Any wind from the west or east speeds up between Sardinia and Corsica, often by a force or two, so check the forecast at first light and cross early in the day.
- Ships use a traffic separation scheme in the strait, and ferries run between Santa Teresa and Bonifacio and across the La Maddalena channel from Palau. Keep a good lookout and cross the shipping lanes at right angles.
- The archipelago is strewn with granite rocks and shoals, many just below the surface. Use an up-to-date chart, keep a lookout at the bow in narrow channels and avoid shortcuts between islets.
- La Maddalena national park has zones closed to all boats and areas where anchoring is limited. Carry the park permit and the current zone map, and follow the charter briefing.
- The Lavezzi islands are a French nature reserve. Several islets are closed to navigation and anchoring to protect seabirds, and some bays only allow anchoring in marked areas.
Provisioning
- Big supermarkets in Olbia and near Portisco before departure; Cannigione and Palau have good shops too.
- La Maddalena town has bakeries, delis and small supermarkets. Porto Cervo is beautiful but expensive for food shopping.
- Bonifacio has bakeries and shops along the quay, with Corsican cheese and charcuterie to try. The euro is used on both sides of the strait.
Rules and fees
- La Maddalena national park: every private boat needs a park permit to sail, anchor or moor inside the park. Buy it online before you arrive, or ask whether your charter company includes it; buying on the water costs more. Check the current rules and fees.
- Some areas of the park are closed to all boats, including Budelli's Pink Beach, and in others anchoring is limited to sand or to certain times. The rules have changed several times in recent seasons, so read the current ones before you go.
- Crossing to Corsica: Italy and France are both in the Schengen area, so there are no border formalities, but carry passports or ID cards, the boat papers and the crew list. Skippers need a recognised licence and a VHF radio certificate.
A planning guide, not a navigational publication. Maps are simplified and distances approximate. Always use official charts, the current pilot book, local notices and the latest forecast, and follow your charter company's briefing.