Saronic Gulf
Greece · a week from Alimos Marina · about 112 nautical miles
Transcript
Saronic Gulf, Greece. Island towns an easy sail from Athens, ancient theatres and sheltered water.
Most charter companies around Athens are based in Alimos Marina, the biggest charter marina in Greece, on the coast south of the city and under an hour from Athens airport. A smaller group sails from Lavrion, near Cape Sounion. This week starts and ends in Alimos.
The season runs from April to October. May, June and September are the best months: warm water, kinder winds and space on the town quays. July and August are hot and busy, and the meltemi can blow for days at a time, so arrive early in the popular harbours. April and October are quieter and cooler, with more changeable weather and some tavernas still closed.
Summer is dry and sunny. The land around the gulf shelters it from the worst of the meltemi, so the sailing is gentler than in the open Aegean. The Meltemi blows from the north-east. The summer wind of the Aegean, strongest in July and August and usually at its peak in the afternoon. Expect force 4 to 6 in the open gulf, and a swell into harbours that face north, such as Hydra. The Sirocco blows from the south-east. Warm, humid and hazy, most common in spring and autumn. It sends a swell into anchorages that face south.
Four ways to spend the night. Marinas: Stern-to with lazy lines in Alimos and the other Athens marinas. Water and power on the pontoon. Town quays: Stern-to on your own anchor, the Greek way. Drop it well out, expect crossed anchors and pay the harbour dues to the port office. Buoys: Few and far between. Some tavernas lay moorings for their customers, so ask before you pick one up. At anchor: Sand and weed in most bays, with good holding. In small coves, take a line ashore.
Filling up. Water and shore power are available in the marinas and on most town quays, but not on buoys or at anchor. Fuel is available in Alimos. Keep the tanks topped up whenever you pass a fuel station.
Now a sample week. It starts and ends in Alimos Marina: six short sailing days and about 112 nautical miles, taking in Aegina town, Palaia Epidavros, Poros, Hydra and Perdika.
Saturday. Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from mid-afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. Central Athens and the Acropolis are about half an hour away by taxi.
Sunday. Alimos to Aegina town, about 17 miles. A straightforward first crossing south-west across the gulf to Aegina, the closest island to Athens. Keep a good lookout for ships heading in and out of Piraeus. While you're there: buy pistachios, the island's speciality, along the harbour front, see the lone column of the Temple of Apollo at the edge of town and take a taxi up to the Temple of Aphaia, high above the east coast. Stern-to on the town quay with your own anchor. Ferries come and go all day, so leave a good gap to the quay.
Monday. Aegina town to Palaia Epidavros, about 15 miles. West past the pine-covered island of Agistri to the Peloponnese coast and the quiet harbour of Palaia Epidavros, set among orange and lemon groves. Lunch and a swim off Agistri on the way. While you're there: see the little ancient theatre at the edge of the village, take a taxi inland to the great theatre of Epidaurus, famous for its acoustics and snorkel over the sunken ancient ruins at the edge of the bay. Stern-to on the town quay, or at anchor in the bay on mud and weed.
Tuesday. Palaia Epidavros to Poros, about 17 miles. East along the coast and round the volcanic Methana peninsula, then into the narrow channel at Poros, where the white town climbs the hill opposite the mainland. While you're there: climb to the clock tower for the view over the channel, take the little ferry across to Galatas on the mainland and swim in Love Bay, a short way west of town. Stern-to on the long town quay. Expect some wash from the ferries and water taxis.
Wednesday. Poros to Hydra, about 17 miles. Out of the east end of the Poros channel and south along the Peloponnese coast to Hydra, the car-free island of stone mansions. While you're there: walk the coast path west to the swimming rocks at Kamini, explore the old captains' mansions above the harbour and sunset drinks by the cannons at the harbour mouth. Stern-to in the tiny harbour, often rafted with anchors crossed. Arrive by early afternoon, or anchor in a nearby bay and take a water taxi into town.
Thursday. Hydra to Perdika, Aegina, about 26 miles. The long day of the week: north past Poros and up the open gulf to the south-west tip of Aegina. Make an early start to cover most of the miles before the afternoon wind builds. While you're there: take the water taxi across to Moni island for a swim, fish supper on the waterfront and watch the sunset over Agistri. Stern-to on the small quay in Perdika, a fishing village lined with fish tavernas. Anchor off if the quay is full.
Friday. Perdika to Alimos, about 20 miles. Round the south and east of Aegina and back across the gulf to Alimos, with a final swim on the way. While you're there: morning swim before you leave Perdika, arrange fuel with the base before the Friday rush and final dinner in Glyfada or central Athens. Back in Alimos Marina by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Be back in Alimos Marina by Friday evening, refuelled, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine. No sailing licence? Add a skipper and simply enjoy the week.
The Saronic Gulf is the easiest island cruising from Athens. Aegina, Poros and Hydra sit within a day's sail of Alimos, the land around the gulf takes the edge off the summer meltemi that blows across the open Aegean, and most nights end on a lively town quay or in a quiet bay. This loop adds the ancient theatre at Epidavros and finishes with a long sail back past Aegina.
Where the charter boats are
Most charter companies around Athens are based in Alimos Marina, the biggest charter marina in Greece, on the coast south of the city and under an hour from Athens airport. A smaller group sails from Lavrion, near Cape Sounion. This week starts and ends in Alimos.
Main bases: Alimos Marina. Marinas: Olympic Marine, Lavrion · Zea Marina, Piraeus
When to go
- The season runs from April to October.
- May, June and September are the best months: warm water, kinder winds and space on the town quays.
- July and August are hot and busy, and the meltemi can blow for days at a time, so arrive early in the popular harbours.
- April and October are quieter and cooler, with more changeable weather and some tavernas still closed.
Weather
Summer is dry and sunny. The land around the gulf shelters it from the worst of the meltemi, so the sailing is gentler than in the open Aegean.
Meltemi
from the north-east
The summer wind of the Aegean, strongest in July and August and usually at its peak in the afternoon. Expect force 4 to 6 in the open gulf, and a swell into harbours that face north, such as Hydra.
Sirocco
from the south-east
Warm, humid and hazy, most common in spring and autumn. It sends a swell into anchorages that face south.
Forecasts
- Hellenic National Meteorological Service (HNMS) marine forecasts at emy.gr.
- Poseidon wind and wave forecasts from the Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, at poseidon.hcmr.gr.
- VHF weather bulletins from Olympia Radio, in Greek and English, and your charter company's check-in briefing.
Sea temperature: Around 19 °C in May, 25 to 26 °C in August, 23 °C in late September.
Where you moor
marina
Stern-to with lazy lines in Alimos and the other Athens marinas. Water and power on the pontoon.
town quay
Stern-to on your own anchor, the Greek way. Drop it well out, expect crossed anchors and pay the harbour dues to the port office.
buoy
Few and far between. Some tavernas lay moorings for their customers, so ask before you pick one up.
anchor
Sand and weed in most bays, with good holding. In small coves, take a line ashore.
Filling up: water, power and fuel
| Port | Type | Water | Power | Fuel | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alimos | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Charter base: start and finish. Fuel is usually delivered to your pontoon by tanker: the base arranges it. |
| Aegina town | Town quay | ✓ | ✓ | – | Busy ferry harbour. Ferry wash can be strong, so keep well off the quay. Fuel by tanker only: refuel at Alimos. |
| Palaia Epidavros | Town quay | ✓ | ✓ | – | Quiet harbour with good shelter. Quay or anchor in the bay on mud and weed. |
| Poros | Town quay | ✓ | ✓ | – | Long quay along the channel. Diesel by mini tanker: ask at the harbour office or the quay. |
| Hydra | Town quay | ✓ | ✓ | – | Tiny and crowded. The entrance faces north, so it can be uncomfortable in a strong meltemi. No fuel station. |
| Perdika | Town quay | – | – | – | Small fishing harbour with limited space. Ask the tavernas about water. No fuel. |
A sample week
Saturday: Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from mid-afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. Central Athens and the Acropolis are about half an hour away by taxi.
Sunday · about 17 nm
Alimos → Aegina town
A straightforward first crossing south-west across the gulf to Aegina, the closest island to Athens. Keep a good lookout for ships heading in and out of Piraeus.
- Buy pistachios, the island's speciality, along the harbour front
- See the lone column of the Temple of Apollo at the edge of town
- Take a taxi up to the Temple of Aphaia, high above the east coast
Overnight: Stern-to on the town quay with your own anchor. Ferries come and go all day, so leave a good gap to the quay.
Monday · about 15 nm
Aegina town → Palaia Epidavros
West past the pine-covered island of Agistri to the Peloponnese coast and the quiet harbour of Palaia Epidavros, set among orange and lemon groves.
On the way: Lunch and a swim off Agistri on the way.
- See the little ancient theatre at the edge of the village
- Take a taxi inland to the great theatre of Epidaurus, famous for its acoustics
- Snorkel over the sunken ancient ruins at the edge of the bay
Overnight: Stern-to on the town quay, or at anchor in the bay on mud and weed.
Tuesday · about 17 nm
Palaia Epidavros → Poros
East along the coast and round the volcanic Methana peninsula, then into the narrow channel at Poros, where the white town climbs the hill opposite the mainland.
- Climb to the clock tower for the view over the channel
- Take the little ferry across to Galatas on the mainland
- Swim in Love Bay, a short way west of town
Overnight: Stern-to on the long town quay. Expect some wash from the ferries and water taxis.
Wednesday · about 17 nm
Poros → Hydra
Out of the east end of the Poros channel and south along the Peloponnese coast to Hydra, the car-free island of stone mansions.
- Walk the coast path west to the swimming rocks at Kamini
- Explore the old captains' mansions above the harbour
- Sunset drinks by the cannons at the harbour mouth
Overnight: Stern-to in the tiny harbour, often rafted with anchors crossed. Arrive by early afternoon, or anchor in a nearby bay and take a water taxi into town.
Thursday · about 26 nm
Hydra → Perdika, Aegina
The long day of the week: north past Poros and up the open gulf to the south-west tip of Aegina. Make an early start to cover most of the miles before the afternoon wind builds.
- Take the water taxi across to Moni island for a swim
- Fish supper on the waterfront
- Watch the sunset over Agistri
Overnight: Stern-to on the small quay in Perdika, a fishing village lined with fish tavernas. Anchor off if the quay is full.
Friday · about 20 nm
Perdika → Alimos
Round the south and east of Aegina and back across the gulf to Alimos, with a final swim on the way.
- Morning swim before you leave Perdika
- Arrange fuel with the base before the Friday rush
- Final dinner in Glyfada or central Athens
Overnight: Back in Alimos Marina by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Friday evening and Saturday: Be back in Alimos Marina by Friday evening, refuelled, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine.
Navigation and mooring
- Stern-to with your own anchor is the norm on Greek town quays. Drop the anchor three or four boat lengths out and be ready for crossed chains in Hydra and Poros.
- Ferries, hydrofoils and fast catamarans run between Piraeus and the islands all day. Keep clear and expect wash in Aegina, Poros and Hydra.
- Large ships anchor and manoeuvre off Piraeus. Cross the approaches at right angles and keep a good lookout.
- The Poros channel is narrow and shallow at its western end. Keep to the buoyed channel and watch for the small ferries crossing to Galatas.
- Fuel in the Saronic mostly comes by tanker rather than from a fuel berth. Keep the tank topped up and book Friday's fuel with the base.
Provisioning
- Supermarkets in Alimos and Glyfada, a short taxi ride from the marina. Many charter companies can arrange delivery to the boat.
- Aegina has a fish market and fruit stalls by the harbour, and is famous for its pistachios.
- Hydra has no cars, so everything arrives by donkey or handcart and prices are higher. Stock up in Poros or Aegina.
Rules and fees
- The Greek cruising tax (TEPAI) and the boat's papers are normally handled by the charter company, and a crew list is prepared at check-in. Check the current rules before you sail.
- The skipper needs a recognised licence such as the ICC, and Greece usually asks for a second crew member with sailing experience. Add a skipper if nobody aboard qualifies.
- Harbour dues on town quays are paid to the port office or municipal port fund; keep the receipt. Ancient sites such as Epidaurus charge entry and keep set opening hours.
A planning guide, not a navigational publication. Maps are simplified and distances approximate. Always use official charts, the current pilot book, local notices and the latest forecast, and follow your charter company's briefing.