West Corsica
France · a week from Ajaccio · about 112 nautical miles
Transcript
West Corsica, France. Red granite cliffs, deep blue water and wild, quiet bays on Corsica's open coast.
Charter companies in Ajaccio use the two city marinas: Port Tino Rossi, right by the old town, and Port Charles Ornano, a little further north along the bay. Both are a short taxi ride from the airport, and this week starts and ends in Ajaccio.
The season runs from May to October. June and September are the best months: warm water, more settled weather and room in the small harbours. July and August are hot and busy, and Girolata and Porto fill early, so arrive in good time each afternoon. May and October are cooler and quieter, with a greater chance of mistral days and some restaurants closed.
Summers are warm and mostly settled, with a sea breeze in the afternoons. But this coast takes the full force of the mistral and the libeccio, so sail it with one eye on the forecast. The Mistral blows from the north-west. The strongest summer wind here. It can blow for days at force 6 or more and raises a steep sea off the headlands. Stay in Calvi or Ajaccio until it passes. The Libeccio blows from the south-west. Brings a heavy swell straight onto the west coast. Girolata, Porto and the open bays become uncomfortable, and small harbour entrances can be dangerous. The Levante blows from the east. Blows offshore on this coast, so the sea stays flat. But it can funnel down the valleys in sudden strong gusts, especially in the gulfs of Porto and Girolata.
Four ways to spend the night. Marinas: Stern-to on lazy lines. Ajaccio and Calvi are large, but Cargèse and Porto are small, so call ahead and arrive early. Town quays: There are few true town quays on this coast. The small harbours work like marinas, with a harbour master to pay. Buoys: Girolata has a paid buoy field run by the local council. Pick up the line at the bow and someone comes by to collect the fee. At anchor: Sand patches between rock and seagrass. Anchor on sand only, and never overnight inside the Scandola reserve.
Filling up. Water and shore power are available in the marinas and on most town quays, but not on buoys or at anchor. Fuel is available in Ajaccio, Cargèse and Calvi. Keep the tanks topped up whenever you pass a fuel station.
Now a sample week. It starts and ends in Ajaccio: six short sailing days and about 112 nautical miles, taking in Cargèse, Girolata, Calvi, Porto and Cargèse.
Saturday. Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from late afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. The old town and its restaurants are a short walk away.
Sunday. Ajaccio to Cargèse, about 20 miles. Out of the Gulf of Ajaccio and round the Sanguinaires islands, then north across the Gulf of Sagone to Cargèse, a hilltop village founded by Greek settlers. While you're there: climb up to the Greek and Latin churches that face each other across the valley, wander the quiet lanes of the village and watch the sunset over the Gulf of Sagone. Berth in Cargèse's small harbour below the village. Space is limited, so arrive early.
Monday. Cargèse to Girolata, about 18 miles. North past Capo Rosso and across the mouth of the Gulf of Porto to the red cliffs of the Scandola reserve, then into the bay of Girolata, a hamlet with no road. Sail slowly along the Scandola cliffs. Fishing and diving are banned in the reserve, and so is anchoring overnight. While you're there: look out for ospreys above the Scandola cliffs, walk up to the Genoese fort above Girolata and have dinner in one of the beach restaurants. On a mooring buoy in Girolata bay. Arrive by mid-afternoon in summer, when the buoys fill fast.
Tuesday. Girolata to Calvi, about 16 miles. North along a wild, empty coast past Galéria to the Revellata headland and the citadel of Calvi. In calm weather, stop for lunch and a swim in a cove below the Revellata lighthouse. While you're there: walk round the ramparts of the citadel, swim from the long sandy beach that curves round the bay and have dinner on the quay looking up at the citadel. Marina berth in Calvi, under the walls of the citadel. Book ahead in July and August.
Wednesday. Calvi to Porto, about 25 miles. The longest day, so leave early: south along the whole Scandola coast and into the Gulf of Porto, ending under the red granite of the Calanques de Piana. Keep the afternoon for the Calanques de Piana, best seen from the water in the late light. While you're there: take the boat slowly beneath the Calanques de Piana, climb the Genoese tower on the rock at the harbour mouth and watch the cliffs glow red at sunset. Porto's harbour is tiny and fills early. Otherwise anchor off the beach in settled weather, or go back to Girolata if a westerly swell is running.
Thursday. Porto to Cargèse, about 13 miles. A short day back round Capo Rosso, with time for a long lunch stop on the way. If the sea is flat, swim below the old watchtower on top of Capo Rosso. While you're there: swim off Capo Rosso in flat calm, try Corsican cheese and chestnut flour pastries in the village and enjoy a quiet last evening before the sail home. Back in Cargèse harbour, or at anchor off one of the beaches nearby in settled weather.
Friday. Cargèse to Ajaccio, about 20 miles. South across the Gulf of Sagone and round the Sanguinaires islands, back into the Gulf of Ajaccio to refuel and return to base. While you're there: take a last swim near the Sanguinaires islands, refuel in Port Tino Rossi before the Friday queue builds and visit Napoleon's birthplace in the old town. Back in Ajaccio by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Be back in Ajaccio by Friday evening, refuelled, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine. No sailing licence? Add a skipper and simply enjoy the week.
The west coast of Corsica is wilder and emptier than the islands further south. Red granite cliffs drop straight into deep water, the villages are small, and the Scandola reserve and the Calanques de Piana are among the most striking coastlines in the Mediterranean. The price is exposure: this coast faces the open sea and the mistral, with few all-weather harbours, so plan each day around the forecast.
Where the charter boats are
Charter companies in Ajaccio use the two city marinas: Port Tino Rossi, right by the old town, and Port Charles Ornano, a little further north along the bay. Both are a short taxi ride from the airport, and this week starts and ends in Ajaccio.
Main bases: Ajaccio. Marinas: Port Tino Rossi, Ajaccio · Port Charles Ornano, Ajaccio · Propriano
When to go
- The season runs from May to October.
- June and September are the best months: warm water, more settled weather and room in the small harbours.
- July and August are hot and busy, and Girolata and Porto fill early, so arrive in good time each afternoon.
- May and October are cooler and quieter, with a greater chance of mistral days and some restaurants closed.
Weather
Summers are warm and mostly settled, with a sea breeze in the afternoons. But this coast takes the full force of the mistral and the libeccio, so sail it with one eye on the forecast.
Mistral
from the north-west
The strongest summer wind here. It can blow for days at force 6 or more and raises a steep sea off the headlands. Stay in Calvi or Ajaccio until it passes.
Libeccio
from the south-west
Brings a heavy swell straight onto the west coast. Girolata, Porto and the open bays become uncomfortable, and small harbour entrances can be dangerous.
Levante
from the east
Blows offshore on this coast, so the sea stays flat. But it can funnel down the valleys in sudden strong gusts, especially in the gulfs of Porto and Girolata.
Forecasts
- Météo-France coastal forecasts for Corsica, online and in the Météo-France app.
- CROSS Med weather bulletins on VHF, announced on channel 16, and the forecast posted at each harbour office.
- Your charter company's check-in briefing for the week ahead.
Sea temperature: Around 17 to 18 °C in May, 24 to 25 °C in August, 22 °C in late September.
Where you moor
marina
Stern-to on lazy lines. Ajaccio and Calvi are large, but Cargèse and Porto are small, so call ahead and arrive early.
town quay
There are few true town quays on this coast. The small harbours work like marinas, with a harbour master to pay.
buoy
Girolata has a paid buoy field run by the local council. Pick up the line at the bow and someone comes by to collect the fee.
anchor
Sand patches between rock and seagrass. Anchor on sand only, and never overnight inside the Scandola reserve.
Filling up: water, power and fuel
| Port | Type | Water | Power | Fuel | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ajaccio | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Charter base: start and finish. Two well-sheltered marinas; fuel station in Port Tino Rossi. |
| Cargèse | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Small harbour with limited visitor space; arrive early. Fuel pump at the end of the visitor quay, with seasonal opening hours. |
| Girolata | Buoys | – | – | – | Buoy field in a bay open to the west: leave if a westerly swell is forecast. No fuel or water: fill up in Calvi or Cargèse. |
| Calvi | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | Large marina below the citadel, with a fuel station. The bay is open to the north-east. |
| Porto | Marina | ✓ | ✓ | – | Very small harbour at the river mouth with few visitor berths: call ahead. The gulf is open to the west. Do not count on fuel here; fill up in Calvi. |
A sample week
Saturday: Saturday is check-in day. Boats are usually ready from late afternoon: do the boat briefing, stow the shopping and spend the first night in the marina. The old town and its restaurants are a short walk away.
Sunday · about 20 nm
Ajaccio → Cargèse
Out of the Gulf of Ajaccio and round the Sanguinaires islands, then north across the Gulf of Sagone to Cargèse, a hilltop village founded by Greek settlers.
- Climb up to the Greek and Latin churches that face each other across the valley
- Wander the quiet lanes of the village
- Watch the sunset over the Gulf of Sagone
Overnight: Berth in Cargèse's small harbour below the village. Space is limited, so arrive early.
Monday · about 18 nm
Cargèse → Girolata
North past Capo Rosso and across the mouth of the Gulf of Porto to the red cliffs of the Scandola reserve, then into the bay of Girolata, a hamlet with no road.
On the way: Sail slowly along the Scandola cliffs. Fishing and diving are banned in the reserve, and so is anchoring overnight.
- Look out for ospreys above the Scandola cliffs
- Walk up to the Genoese fort above Girolata
- Have dinner in one of the beach restaurants
Overnight: On a mooring buoy in Girolata bay. Arrive by mid-afternoon in summer, when the buoys fill fast.
Tuesday · about 16 nm
Girolata → Calvi
North along a wild, empty coast past Galéria to the Revellata headland and the citadel of Calvi.
On the way: In calm weather, stop for lunch and a swim in a cove below the Revellata lighthouse.
- Walk round the ramparts of the citadel
- Swim from the long sandy beach that curves round the bay
- Have dinner on the quay looking up at the citadel
Overnight: Marina berth in Calvi, under the walls of the citadel. Book ahead in July and August.
Wednesday · about 25 nm
Calvi → Porto
The longest day, so leave early: south along the whole Scandola coast and into the Gulf of Porto, ending under the red granite of the Calanques de Piana.
On the way: Keep the afternoon for the Calanques de Piana, best seen from the water in the late light.
- Take the boat slowly beneath the Calanques de Piana
- Climb the Genoese tower on the rock at the harbour mouth
- Watch the cliffs glow red at sunset
Overnight: Porto's harbour is tiny and fills early. Otherwise anchor off the beach in settled weather, or go back to Girolata if a westerly swell is running.
Thursday · about 13 nm
Porto → Cargèse
A short day back round Capo Rosso, with time for a long lunch stop on the way.
On the way: If the sea is flat, swim below the old watchtower on top of Capo Rosso.
- Swim off Capo Rosso in flat calm
- Try Corsican cheese and chestnut flour pastries in the village
- Enjoy a quiet last evening before the sail home
Overnight: Back in Cargèse harbour, or at anchor off one of the beaches nearby in settled weather.
Friday · about 20 nm
Cargèse → Ajaccio
South across the Gulf of Sagone and round the Sanguinaires islands, back into the Gulf of Ajaccio to refuel and return to base.
- Take a last swim near the Sanguinaires islands
- Refuel in Port Tino Rossi before the Friday queue builds
- Visit Napoleon's birthplace in the old town
Overnight: Back in Ajaccio by Friday evening for the check-in inspection.
Friday evening and Saturday: Be back in Ajaccio by Friday evening, refuelled, for the check-in inspection. Saturday morning is check-out, usually by nine.
Navigation and mooring
- This coast faces the open sea, with few all-weather harbours between Ajaccio and Calvi. Plan each day around the forecast and always have a fallback harbour in mind.
- The mistral and the libeccio can raise a big sea quickly. Girolata, Porto and the open anchorages become dangerous in a westerly swell; Ajaccio and Calvi are the safe havens.
- Offshore winds can drop in sudden strong gusts from the mountains into the gulfs, even on fine days. Reef early when approaching Porto or Girolata.
- In the Scandola reserve, fishing and diving are banned and anchoring is only allowed by day. Tour boats crowd the cliffs in summer: keep a good lookout and a steady, slow speed.
- The small harbours fill by mid-afternoon in July and August. Call ahead on VHF or by phone, and leave early on long days.
Provisioning
- Big supermarkets in Ajaccio before departure. The market by the old port is good for fruit, cheese and charcuterie.
- Small shops in Cargèse, Calvi and Porto. Girolata has restaurants but almost nothing to buy.
- Water and fuel are scarce between Cargèse and Calvi, so leave each harbour with full tanks.
Rules and fees
- Scandola nature reserve: fishing and diving are banned and anchoring is not allowed overnight. New controls on visitor numbers began in 2026 and stricter rules are planned, so check the current regulations before you go.
- Anchor on sand, not seagrass. Anchoring on Posidonia meadows is banned in many Corsican bays and the rules are enforced.
- Skippers need a recognised licence and a VHF radio certificate. Harbour dues are paid at each port office; keep the boat papers and crew list aboard.
A planning guide, not a navigational publication. Maps are simplified and distances approximate. Always use official charts, the current pilot book, local notices and the latest forecast, and follow your charter company's briefing.